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3.0L M5OD Clutch Swap
(Graphics intensive, please be patient)
Aaaaargh! ...not again!
Here's the culprit!
Well, it's clutch time.
Boy how time flies. Just 70,000 miles ago I was in there for the very same reason, the pilot bearing. At least
those are my only clutch/trans related problems to date. I can't complain since I tow a 3,500lb trailer in the mountains!
I won't bore you with the details of the removal/installation, as those are in your manual. This is just a "Meat and Potatoes" page covering
the CenterForce® Dual Friction® (from MotorHead.com) install and some helpful tips.
Here is my first hurdle: My Radius Arm Brackets were severely tweaked by the original owner. Since the
truck ws going to be down a while, I decided to replace them.
I am not big on taking any short cuts inside the bellhousing. It's just too much of a pain to keep dropping the
trans because you wanted to save a few bucks. My recommendation is to replace everything inside with new parts of
equal or higher quality than original. The pilot bearing is normally overlooked, as is resurfacing the flywheel.
Together, they are < $30 and take just an extra hour or so, but they will save time and money in the long run!
If you have problems with "clutch-chatter", the resurface will cure them!
Click on pix to enlarge (in a new window), "mouseover" for caption
(wiggle your mouse over the thumbnail for more reading time)
-Get all the parts you will need:
Bearing Puller w/ slide hammer (My last 2 pilot bearings needed 10-12 hits with the 5lb slide hammer to remove...)
Engine Rear Main Oil Seal
Ford Rear Main Seal Installation Tool (or a large socket/section of pipe)
Local Machine Shop to do the flywheel resurface/lightening
Pressure Plate and Clutch Disc (MotorHead.com, $241)
Slave Cylinder/throwout bearing combo (New version Ford P/N: YL5Z-7A508-AA, ~$70)
Sealed bottle of brake fluid (I prefer synthetic) for bleeding/flush
3 Qts (Book says 2.5, but mine took almost all 3) MERCON ATF (again, I use synthetic)
3-5/8" freeze plugs (shifter plug mod)
1 Tube gasket sealant (for plug mod)
Upper and Lower shifter bushings (about $8 from Ford, gets rid of all the shifter slop)
Shifter Mounting Plate (top of trans, rubber is normally separated)
1 small tube of LOCTITE® 242®
Transmission Tailshaft Seal
Transmission Mount (~$30)
Clutch Alignment Tool (less than $4)
1-4 O2 sensors (Hey, you're right there... you might as well replace them while they are accessible!)
1 tube of "Anti-Seize" for all the exhaust bolts
and make sure the store has a good return policy! (I order EVERYTHING and bring back what I don't use)
-Arrange for a "parts-chaser" or rental car, at a bare minimum you will need a ride to the machine shop.
(One Day Prior...)
-Spray everything with Castrol® "Super-Clean" (or similar) and hose clean.
-Blast all the exhaust bolts with a penetrating oil and let them soak!
-Drain the trans fluid, it's cheap and much neater to remove an EMPTY trans!
-Push the vehicle to the freshly swept work area. (You don't want to lay on a wet/oil stained work area, do you?)
-A transmission jack really helps, especially if you have the Radius Arm Brackets in place.
-Get the jack inplace to support the transmission.
-Drop (figuratively speaking...) the transmission crossmember/trans mount, (Notice the way the catalytic convertor hanger is installed, there will be a test later!)
-Drop the "Y"-Pipe and cats as one piece.
-Disconnect the reverse switch connector (top/middle of trans).
-Disconnect the Speedo-Cable.
-Place a wood block between the oil pan and the "I" beams to keep the engine from tearing the mounts.
-Unbolt/slide out Transmission.
(Once it's out...)
-Check for damage or unexpected problems.
-Check to be sure the shifter plug mod is done.
-Replace the Shifter Bushings and tailshaft seal.
-While the engine is on an angle, the "Oil Pressure Sending Switch is easily accessible. Good
time to do the "Idiot-Gauge" mod! (I'll have a page on this later...)
-Although the instructions say "Don't rest the input shaft on the pilot bearing", how would you know?? Another good reason
for the Transmission Jack.
-The engine and trans have to be in the same plane (3 axis) or there will be problems.
-The trans will not get any closer than 1/2" from seating due to the pressure from the slave cylinder. Make sure
the slave cylinder is connected to the clutch line and then use the lowest bolt holes (with the alignment dowels) to
pull the trans in to seat.
-Reattach the speedo cable (with a new cable end gear if you have not calibrated it since you installed your new tires!!).
-Reattach the reverse switch connector (top/middle of trans).
-Check/replace the O2 sensors while they are out.
-Using a standard hydraulic jack under the tailcone of the trans (in place of the trans jack), lift the tranny to within 1" of the trans tunnel.
-Install the "Y"-pipe end of the exhaust first (using 4- M12/1.75-50mm Stainless Steel Bolts and "Anti-Seize"), then the cat end.
-Install the new transmission mount to the trans.
-Install the catalytic converter bracket on the hook welded to the cat. The "R" faces rear, and the raised ribs (either side of the mounting bolt hole), face up (trans side).
-Now, you can install the transmission crossmember.
-REFILL THE TRANSMISSION WITH MERCON ATF (Just so you don't forget!)
Now, double check everything and enjoy!
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