Before we move on...

Are you tired of that pathetic alternator that Ford stuck on the 3.0L?
Well, there are a few ways around that!  Ford was nice enough to use only a couple different alternator configurations, so swaps are pretty simple.  Here is a list of what Ford used on the 3.0L, and some more suitable substitutes  You may need to change the pulley and fan, but they are otherwise direct swaps. Some other choices may be possible, but you will need to research them on your own.:
(ADP Hollander interchange number in brackets for use at the junk yard)

Click for: Aerostar, Probe, Ranger, Sable/Taurus, Tempo/Topaz.
Let's check on a few things first:

-Does your Throttle Body know it's suppose to be completely open when you have the pedal nailed to the floor?
-Does your computer know you have the pedal nailed to the floor?


- Want to bypass your factory speed limiter?

Now that that's finished...
-The Ultimate Electric Fan Install.  Coming in July!
-Use that WAC relay for some more ponies!
-Intake Air Temperature (IAT) Mod
-Throttle Cable Modification: If your pedal is to the floor and the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and the Throttle Body Butterfly are not fully open, you are not at full throttle! That is why this is under "Electrical Mods", if the TPS doesn't send the 4.0V signal to the Computer, the ECM can't run the "Damn the Torpdoes" portion of the fuel management program or cut out the A/C compressor. But, let's see if the throttle is open first:

  • 10mm Wrench
  • 10mm Socket
  • Rachet
  • Lead Fishing Weight or Crimp Connector
  • Crimping Tool or Pliers
  • Trusty assistant or a brick/stick
  • Digital (preferred) or Analog Multi-Meter

Procedure: Let the engine cool, preferrably over night.
Raise the hood.
Remove the Throttle Linkage Cover using the 10mm Wrench, 10mm Socket and Rachet.
While you are observing the throttle linkage, have your assistant push the throttle to the floor, don't stand on it, just make sure it's all the way down. (If you are alone, use a brick or stick to hold the pedal down. You may want to use a brick or a stick if these items happen to be smarter than your assistant!)
Push the throttle in the same direction until it stops.
If it moved, Click Here
If it didn't move, read on...

Now that we know the throttle is open, it is time to find out if the computer knows that:

Throttle Position Sensor Check

With the Key On and Engine Off (KOEO), measure the voltage (0-5 or 10 scale) between TP (Red/+) and SIG RTN (Blk/-) on the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS), it should be 4VDC or greater.

Measure between V REF (Red/+) and SIG RTN (Blk/-).  This reading must be 5VDC.
(Less than 5VDC indicates a wiring problem.)

5VDC on the V REF and <4VDC on TP is a bad or improperly aligned TPS.  Remove the TPS and turn it by had to see if it reaches 4.0VDC or more. If not, repalce the TPS and recheck.
If it does, use a small amount of epoxy inside the TPS to adjust the voltage, use files to "tweak" as needed.
Now the computer knows it is at Wide Open Throttle (WOT). That's it for the free stuff, unless you happen to have a '94 or earlier 3.0L or a '98 and later 3.0L!

Time to modify the Throttle Cable:

Look under the dash at the top of the gas pedal, and you will see a steel/lead ball crimped on the end of the cable.  Pull the slack from the ball end.  Place the fishing wieght up against the pedal and crimp over cable (or use zip ties!).  The slack is now gone and your throttle plate should fully open.  Check to make sure Click to continue .