Keeping your cool...
How come I have to walk through the Minefield??
Fact: The power pulley relieves the burden of the crank driven ancillaries by reducing the drive speed.
My Theory: The smaller pulley causes every belt driven accessories to slow down. This causes the coolant to stay in the block longer at near idle speeds, and reduces cooling system effectiveness (ESPECIALLY if you have a mechanical fan). Using a substandard CFM electric fan, increases the problem as it’s limited airflow and lack of a conventional shroud (directing large area to a smaller diameter).
Solution: While I would never give up a power pulley (except to add a supercharger), I do recommend the following fixes:
A. Spend the $$ and get a real fan.
B. Continue to use your inexpensive fan, but built a real shroud for it that covers the entire surface of the radiator (or at least 3/4) and narrows to allow the "blade gaurd" they call a shroud to be pop riveted in.
C. Replace your radiator with a 2 row for added coolant and surface area.
D. Make (or have made) a smaller diameter water pump pulley to turn the water pump (and mechanical fan if attached) at no more than 80% of the crankshaft speed (according to Smokey Yunick). 80% is for engines turning 7,000 RPMs or more.
Our stock ratio is: xx%, with the "Power Pulley" it is xx%.
I’m working on new cooling system capable of towing our 3,000lb trailer up a mountain with the A/C blowin’.
The Radiator is a lifetime warranty GoDan "Ready-Rad +®" Ford 2217 (4.0L Ranger/Explorer) and it’s a 2 row (stock is single)
radiator. The remainder of the system is Flex-a-Lite Black Magic® Fan
using handmade mounts (fashioned after the Flex-a-Lite II Ranger mounts); Evans© NPG+ Coolant, 7 PSI Cap, 195° Thermostat
and all new hoses/hardware.
Here is the radiator thickness:
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